The
Berry DisPatch
Why
Not Raspberries?
Brian R. Smith
University of Wisconsin – River Falls
Yes, I know that here is another raspberry article and you dedicated
strawberry growers out there are wondering when there will be another
strawberry article-well, I do have one planned for the next newsletter!
Fall is a great time to re-evaluate how raspberries could fit into your
small fruit business. Many good
strawberry growers have told me that they have “tried” raspberries and not
found them to be worth the hassle- too many weed problems, inconsistent
production, high pruning costs…. However, as I have suggested in the past, most
of the time when raspberries did not “work” for somebody there was some other crop that was actually competing
with raspberries for the grower’s time and expertise. Could it be strawberries are the real reason for raspberries
getting a bad name in Wisconsin? Think
about it- which crop comes first when you consider pest control, irrigation,
nutrition (if there is time, I will eventually get to the raspberries, but only
after the strawberries are taken care of!)
I
know of one direct market-fruit operation in the upper Midwest that started
with apples (70 acres) and then added fall fruiting (FF) raspberries,
strawberries and pumpkins. The owners
did the math and actually came to the conclusion that the raspberries were the
real profit-maker of the four. About 2
acres of raspberries were originally planted and now there are 9 acres, with
plans for possible
Continued from front page
further expansion into summer-bearing(SB)
raspberries and maybe winter greenhouse production of raspberries.
Okay,
so you’re not convinced- lets look at potential critical factors in success of
raspberry plantings.
Labor
Issues – Do you have enough labor set up to handle raspberry production
at peak times? A large amount of labor
is required for late winter detailed-pruning necessary for summer-bearing
raspberries. With careful management if
you feel this labor is too costly, try using the Biennial Production System
(see the April ’02 newsletter) in which half of your plantings produce in any
given year and all you do is mow off the canes and narrow the rows- no detailed
pruning! Yields can be almost as high
as if all the planting were bearing each year if you implement versions of
primocane suppression to eliminate competition with bearing canes.
Planting
Density/Row Spacing – This certainly depends partly on your tractor
wheel spacing, but sometimes keeping an old tractor with 6ft between wheels can
be more costly than purchasing a compact used tractor and being able to
efficiently use land and plant rows 6-8 ft. apart. Remember, raspberry efficiency is similar to strawberry; up to
a point, the more narrow the rows and the more rows/acre the better the
yields are and the less chance you will see pest problems. Plants are a costly item in the
establishment year, but it does not pay to skimp- the further the plants are
apart- the longer it takes to fill the row, the longer it takes to reach
maximum production/cash flow, while the more you realize you have a growing
weed problem…. Fall fruiting raspberries should be planted no more than 2 ft
apart within a row. Closer spacings
such as this in an early-planted FF field can produce cash flow the first year!
SB raspberries should also be spaced as close although the benefits are not as
immediately enjoyed.
Proper
trellising – Simplicity is the key in most cases. Few commercial raspberry plantings should
ever be considered without a trellis.
Trellising helps keep the plants within boundaries so that machinery can
travel in between rows to prevent pest problems, reduce fruit losses and allow
for easier harvesting. Also, make sure
the trellis matches the crop. FF
raspberries require trellising even more than SB cultivars because they start
fruiting basipetally (from the tips downwards) and are naturally top heavy and
flop over. FF raspberries should have
easily removable posts in order to facilitate mowing procedures. SB raspberries can have a more permanent
post/trellis unless you anticipate using the Biennial System.
Cultivars/Fruiting
Type – First decide whether July or a mid-August to October season fits
in better to your operation. SB’s
should come into harvest right after the last strawberries and have no “frost” and
potentially very few pruning issues (Biennial System). FF types fit neatly in
with apples or late-season vegetables.
Frost is becoming less of an issue as earlier FF cultivars are being
introduced. However, to obtain a
sufficiently long harvest season, several cultivars are usually chosen and the
reality of frost control again comes back as a concern after
mid-September. Few if any growers opt
for overwintering canes of FF raspberries in order to obtain a light summer
crop due to typically poor yields, the
potential for winter injury and the need for more detailed pruning. It may just come down to the issue that you
want to plant SB types and have all harvesting done by August 1 or that
maybe you are so sick of strawberries that you need a 4-6 week break before
“braving” it again and thus you choose the FF raspberries.
Whichever fruiting type you choose, the correct cultivar will be the
next most important decision you make.
Do some background research on the characteristics of the cultivars you
are considering; such as disease resistance, winter hardiness, potential yield,
fruit quality, cropping consistency, etc.
Get a copy of my “Recommended Raspberry Cultivars for Wisconsin.” Next, since you still cannot be entirely
sure which cultivars will perform best on your particular site, choose the most
promising 6-9 cultivars (2-3 each of early, midseason and late) and trial them
on your farm (minimum 100 plants of each).
Site
Selection- Raspberries generally benefit from the same soils as strawberries-sandy
loams, loamy sands; they will develop fewer diseases problems. However, exposure is even more
important. FF raspberries benefit from
a warm southerly exposure- the greater the heat the earlier they will bear in
the fall and the greater the % of crop you will harvest without frost
complications. SB raspberries will
benefit from a more northerly exposure if they have protection afforded by a
windbreak. SB raspberries sustain the
most winter injury from becoming active during mid-to late winter warm
spells-northern exposures help prevent undue warming and activity.
Irrigation-
It is easy to slip into the idea that the larger the plant, the less you have
to worry about irrigation. (Most apple
orchards in Wisconsin would benefit significantly from irrigation, but how many
orchards actually have or use it?)
Raspberries should be drip-irrigated on a regular basis to obtain
maximum fruit yield, quality and health!
Sprinkler irrigation will be required only for late maturing FF cultivars.
Weed
Control- This could be the most important factor in raspberry planting
longevity and is the same for strawberries.
The preparation and establishment years are the most critical-eliminate
the perennial weeds the year before and don’t allow any weeds to gain a
foothold in the establishment year; you will be rewarded with many years of
minor weed control in most cases! The
other great aspect of raspberry
production is that there are many more herbicides with greater and longer
activity than those available for strawberries. However, with this added
flexibility there is also the possibility of greater error. Some herbicide labels for raspberries are
not appropriate for raspberries and additionally some appropriate herbicides
for raspberries have labeled rates higher than they should be! These inconsistencies can cause major
problems in raspberry production.
Examples of inappropriate herbicides labeled for raspberries: Karmex,
Solicam
Examples of appropriate herbicides with labeled rates too high (at least
at upper range of labeled rates): Princep, Sinbar, Surflan.
Also, consider the fact that tissue-cultured
plants in the establishment year are far more sensitive to herbicides than
bareroot cane stock.
Marketing/Pricing
Raspberry yields are typically lower than those for strawberry but value
per pound much higher. Make sure you
get compensated appropriately for your hard work. Raspberry prices should be 2-4 times higher than for
strawberries. Also, keep in mind, fewer people typically want to go to a
pick-your-own raspberry operation as compared to strawberries. Therefore, your
greatest business/profit potential is more likely to be in pre-picked markets,
assuming you can find a reliable labor force and a large enough customer
base.